“Good luck,” is what most of them said as we wrapped up the small talk, although I think they wanted to say “be careful” or “come back alive.” I’m not going off to war, just Colombia. So what if the government has been engaged in conflict with left-wing insurgents and illegal right-wing paramilitaries for years? President Alvaro Uribe reportedly has this under wraps, keeping most of the conflicts confined to the countryside and out of the main commercial centers since taking office in 2002.

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